Snow? On the Desert?

Today we left Beit Zaman, our cozy restored ancient village hotel in Wadi Musa near Petra, and slowly made our way over treacherous, snow covered roads towards Amman, the capital of Jordan.

The roads were particularly slippery because snow is rare here and I'm not sure snow plows, road salt, or even snow shovels are a part of the culture.

Once we got to Amman and checked into our hotel, we slushed out to explore a bit, getting our feet very wet and enjoyably watching Jordanians enjoying the snow.

A snowman in front of a hotel in Amman

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What a trip this has been! Remembering the snow here in Jordan, the marvel of Petra, the beach at the Dead Sea, the stark beauty of the Negev Desert, the glory of Jerusalem, and the sweetness of Galilee, we head back across the Jordan River for Tel Aviv and then home tomorrow.

Shalom!

Petra. Oh, my!

We emerged from yesterday's zero-visibility sandstorm (it nixed our jeep ride in Wadi Rum) into a gloriously clear, yet icily cold and windy day. But trust that weather is not a factor when what's on your agenda is Petra.

The mile-long walk down the Siq to the Treasury was amazing as we saw with our own eyes what the Nabateans wrought over 2,000 years ago, and we couldn't believe our eyes when we got there!

Our first glimpse through an opening in the canyon walls

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And camels, wonderful, wonderful camels.
We agree with Mary: "You can never have too many pictures of camels!" 

Studying Archaeology

We explore, we think, we take notes, we marvel. Here we are atop Masada. 

Here's our sweet camel which Kellun and I named Aniq. isn't she just the cutest? 

And here we are IN the Dead Sea, doing our choreographed synchronized swimming routine. 

None of us had problems staying afloat!

The Lowest Place on Earth

This morning we left Jerusalem and headed south into the Negev Desert. How amazing that within twenty minutes or so we were gazing out the bus windows at stark canyons covered with cream colored sand, small Bedouin settlements, shepherds and their sheep on the hillsides, and an occasional camel along the road. Is this real?

Mary and Kellun contemplating the desert

We stopped in Qumran to see for ourselves where the Dead Sea Scrolls were discovered in 1947 by a Bedouin shepherd boy. How awe inspiring to look up at the caves in the canyon walls where the scrolls were found and to explore excavations of the 2,000 year old Essene settlement where they were written.

We headed further south and further down below sea level, and at last reached the Dead Sea at -1300 feet below sea level, the lowest place on the planet. It sparkled on the left as we drove, a stunningly beautiful, turquoise body of water with white edges of salt. It looked like an inviting tropical destination, replete with date palms. However, there were no people in sight.

Next stop - Masada, a towering cliff made into a palace and then a fortress, with a powerful story. We rode the cable car up to the top, marveled at the archaeological ruins, and then some intrepid souls walked the long Snake Path back down.

We arrived at our hotel, tired yet excited and marveling that we were sleeping within yards of the water's edge. I walked down to dip my feet in the salty Dead Sea water. Tomorrow I'll go in for a float. After I ride my camel.

Busy Days in Jerusalem

Over the past three days in Jerusalem, we have been busy, energetic and thoughtful tourist/learners.

We've explored churches and archeological sites (oh, my, yes we have - many, many!), museums, and traditional sites of commemoration.

At the Huldah Gates to the Temple in Jerusalem

We have heard the Jewish call to Shabbat, the Muslim call of the faithful to prayer, and a chanting, singing Christian procession along the Via Dolorosa.

View of Jerusalem from Dominus Flevit Church on the Mount of Olives

At the Western Wall

We have seen hundreds of people in a variety of dress, enjoyed shopping for pottery in the Armenian Quarter, visited the Western Wall, watched devout Christians lighting candles and burning incense in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, and viewed the stunning golden vision of Dome of the Rock.

We have walked countless miles up and down Jerusalem's many hills, inside and outside the famous city walls, over ancient stairs and streets and roads, and descended down underground into excavated ruins, tunnels, cisterns, and even a Herodian Era tomb.

And we've eaten delicious falafel, mangoes, eggplant, persimmons, excellent dairy products, mango juice and pomegranate tea - and even managed to do a little shopping. We are continually amazed at the wonder of this ancient city!

Bethlehem, Shepherds, and a Wall

This morning we found ourselves in the West Bank in Bethlehem visiting the Church of the Nativity. Underneath this famous church, in a grotto now lined with tapestries and adorned with lanterns and incense and a sense of awe, is the spot where Jesus was born. It is marked with an impressive 14-pointed silver star.

The Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem

As odd as this might sound, our guide through the structures was a Palestinian Muslim named Nasser who had attended Bethlehem Bible College. He was knowledgeable and personable and full of respectful wonder for the historical significance of the event that had happened in his hometown.
















Later we visited that very college and were warmly welcomed by its Palestinian Christian president. He provided insights for us about the generations of his family who had lived in Bethlehem, how he came to found this institution, and what life is like now under Israeli military occupation.

As we left Bethlehem and the West Bank, our bus was searched by an armed guard as we passed through a checkpoint at the infamous wall created by Israel to mark the boundary from Palestine. As an American tour group we had nothing to fear, but we sadly reflected on the impact of this apartheid-like restrictiveness on the residents.

And then we saw actual 'shepherds abiding in their fields, watching their flock' - just what one would expect to see where Christmas all began, right?

Ah, what sense to make of all of this?!! When we got back, we worked hard on solving world peace over our wine before dinner.

Kellun, Penny, Harry, Linda, Reathel, Holly, & Rachel

"Up to Jerusalem"

Even though today we drove from the north of Israel out to the Mediterranean Sea and then south for about about an hour and a half, we actually went "up." Jerusalem is a holy city on a hill and an uplifting place indeed!

Before we got there we again visited Caesarea Maritima, an ancient harbor city on the Mediterranean. The surf was calm, the sun was shining, and this time we got to walk through the archaeological remains of a complex that Herod the Great built from 22 BC through 10 AD to host the Olympics. We sat in the theatre with its perfect acoustics, visualized the grand palace at the promontory point that once overlooked the sea, and imagined the Apostle Paul setting off from the harbor there to spread his important news to far lands (which in the first century AD meant other places along the Mediterranean).

Upon arrival in Jerusalem we went directly to the Israel Museum to study a pretty amazing scale model for an overview of the city as it was in 66 AD and to see the Shrine of the Book where the - yes - the Dead Sea Scrolls are kept. Tomorrow we'll tour the actual city and in a few days we're going to the actual Dead Sea!

We also took in Yad Vashem for a sobering look at the dreadful effects of the Holocaust on the Jewish population of the world. It is a museum as well as a heart-wrenching memorial.

For the next five nights we'll be at the Notre Dame Guest House, a beautifully restored pilgrim guest house near the New Gate in the Old City. Tired? Well, yes I am!